Honey Brook, PA

Arrived at no heat, customer had breaker off to unit. Turned breaker back on and unit turned on itself and ran for over an hour and reached set point, not sure why unit shut off but it ran fine with no issues.

When I arrived and made demand for heat from the thermostat The outdoor unit would come on but blower motor would not. Inspected indoor unit and noticed the low voltage wiring connector at control was not quite snug. I re connected the low voltage wiring in such a way that there is only 1 conductor in each terminal using wire nuts. Also checked wiring connections at outdoor equipment. There was a history of HPC (high pressure Cutoff at outdoor equipment fault history) this can be explained by communication issue/blower motor not coming on. I also set heat a flow trim to -2% The b3 error code persists. It’s caused by high static pressure. When you take blower out of air handler b3 code goes away. I explained this concept to homeowner. They will by lower MERV filter. The b3 error code does not shut equipment off it is just an alert. Cycled system 3 times after making wiring changes and system operating well. No charge we were out recently for blower motor.

When I arrived temperature of water was 115° I noriced there is the sound of water flowing when all fixtures are closed. I bled lo hot water lines in house and allowed water temperature to fall to about 80° Then set after heater control to HOT. Place a pip clamp thermocouple on the hot water pipe about a foot from where it comes out of water heater. Kept all hot fixtures closed and monitored temperature of pipe over time. In a 25 minute period pipe clamp temperature rose 8° (84°-92°) water temperature measured at sink about the same. I noticed the cold water faucet at kitchen was very slow. I checked toilet/gaskets and valved off toilets to see if water flow would stop. The toilets are not the cause of constantly running water. She said she had a usually high water bill past billing period. There is a leak or leaks in the plumbing under slab. She has called a plumber, They are coming tomorrow morning.

Replacement of the Propane Gas Valve under Manufacturer's Parts Warranty. Disconnect power supply and turn water off. Drain down the water heater completely. Disconnect Gas Piping and remove the failed Gas Valve. Install a new Honeywell Propane Gas Valve and reconnect wiring. Reinstall the Gas Piping and test fittings to ensure there are no leaks Turn water on and refill the water heater. Turn Power Supply on and set Gas Valve Control to "Hot" Setting. Measure Water Temperature and Water Pressure. Ensure Water Heater is heating to 120 Degrees and shutting off when at temperature. Complete warranty paperwork and return part to manufacturer for parts warranty processing.

Arrived for no heat when I got to the customers house both thermostats for the basement zone and the main house zone were blank. I went to the furnace in the basement and the control board was blank and the zone board was blank. Had power to the receptacle for 120 . When checking power at the unit I didn’t have 120 V . I checked my switch and had black tape on it. I removed the black tape and the wire on the switch was very loose. I tightened down the screw. Put the switch plate back together for the electrical and powered the system back on and everything powered back up thermostats, control board, and zone board. Everything is working fine at this time of service.

Performed a QA on a heat pump system. Took photos of the equipment and looked at the overall install of the indoor unit and the outdoor heat pump. Looked at the wiring connections and the voltages. Inspected the drain lines and tested . Inspected the air filter. Looked at temp splits for the system . Outside unit checked the disconnect and the outdoor unit level and made sure all connections are sealed and wiring was completed in a neatly fashion. Refrigerant Charge was good and checked compressor and fan amp draws. New equipment is working fine at this time of service I did collect a check from the customer for the amount of 11,832.00

Fully assessed no heating situation. Talk to homeowner about what was happening and found that outdoor unit was running, but then the indoor blower would shut off. System a call for heat. Everything came on and was running then found the exact same scenario happened outdoor heat pump running but no indoor blower motor.. blower motor limit code . This indicates a failing blower motor. Called distributor and ordered in motor. Homeowner is using fire places for now.

Check up on a heat pump system. Checked the air filter and found good , customer also services his humidifier. Checked the wiring connections and the voltages. Checked the thermostat in all heating modes, started with electric heat. Inspected the amps for the heating elements and checked the blower amps and the operation. Took electric heat temps at the return and supply. Performed a outdoor BTU output for the heat pump. Checked the outdoor unit, wire connections and the voltages. Inspected the components and tested the amps draws for the compressor and the fan motor. The heat pump is in good working order.

Found water heater constantly running when I arrived with not hot water demand. Found control set to a setting which is usually about 125 degrees. Checked water temp at it was 165 degrees way to high. Turned down water heater control and it did shut off but Honeywell control is very in accurate temperature wise. Ran all fixt on hot in home to get rid of 165 degree water and turned down controtor make sure water heater will shut off and at a resonable temperature. Temp is now 100 degrees.

Removed existing air handler and replace with a new Bosch air handler in existing location. Flipped coil to downflow position. Installed new ez trap and wet switch. Installed new eco bee thermostat. Installed new Bosch heat pump in existing location on a new concrete pad, flushed the refrigerant lineset, installed disconnect with built in surge protector.